Wreck followed by summer project.

Well I have a new project for the next few months. This last Saturday I went down while riding in the mountains. I'm ok with just a few minor scrapes and bruises. Thanks to God and my gear. Riding gear is amazing. You never know what you are paying for untill you use it, and riding gear is something I don't ever want to have to use. It is nice to know that I got my moneys worth though.

Oh well here is the damage.

Handel bars are torqued, tank is dented, lights are scratched, pipes are scratched, mirrors are busted, and clutch leaver is scratched.



































The bike is ride-able. The tank and the pipes can wait. The handlebars and mirrors are really the only thing keeping me from riding. So that is at the top of the list.

Once I get in bars I'll post on the installation process.

If anyone is reading this I do have one question. My horn button is pounded into the controls. Does anyone know how to fix that?

Air filter replacement and cleaning.

Replace the air filter at the required intervals indicated by your owners manual.

How to remove the filter:

1. Lift the tank
2. Remove the cover (2) through the proper hooks (1)
3. Extract the filter cartridge

Clean the filter cartridge with a compressed air jet or, if necessary, replace it.

This is a shorter one, but I hope it was helpful.

Oil Change!!

What you need:

1. Set of allen sockets. This is in place of wrenches; because you will need to torque them.
2. 4 liters of your preferred oil.
   
3. Oil filter.

How to:

1. Warm up the oil by taking the bike on a short ride around the block.
   
2. Discharge the oil from the oil sump through cap (3).
3. Clean the wirenet filter (4) to eliminate eventual residuals and fit the cap again locking it fully.
4. Loosen the filter cartridge (5) using a filter wrench.
   
5. Fit the new cartridge, taking care to lubricate the gasket, screwing it in its seat and lock it by hand.
   
6. Unscrew cap (1) and fill with the prescribed oil type. (I use a synthetic, but if your bike is still in the break in stage you don't want to use synthetic)
7. Fill up to the level established on the indicator (2).
   
8. Screw cap (1) again.

IMPORTANT: Do this with a hot engine and never exceed the maximum oil level.

Bleeding the hydraulic system.

The dark clutch fluid is something that Ducati riders have put up with. And it is on the list of those things that worry us at first and then we learn to just ignore.

If it bothers you the solution is an aftermarket replacement clutch slave.

It's time to bleed the clutch if your lever action is difficult or your service requires it.

1. Clutch pump
2. Control lever
3. Pump-clutch connecting pipe
4. Push plunger
   
5. Release rod
   
6. Push Disk
   
7. Clutch bell
8. Oil drain pipe fitting

What you need:

1. Clear hose
2. Jar
3. Break Fluid

How To:

1. On the clutch cylinder you will see a nipple like bolt known as a bleed with a hex fitting around it. Find a box ended wrench that will fit on there.
2. Now with the wrench on there, Put the clear hose on the bleed, and into a jar. Pour some brake fluid into the jar, and make sure the hose is fully inside that brake fluid.
3. Now break the bleed on the clutch cylinder loose, but don't loosen it just break the initial hold.
4. Now grab your clutch lever with one hand, and the wrench on the bleed with the other.
5. Slowly pull the brake lever, and as it begins to move, loosen the bleed, you will either see air or brake fluid come out or a combination of both.
6. BEFORE the clutch lever reaches the bottom of its travel, close the bleed. Now let go of the clutch lever.
7. Repeat this until you see only brake fluid, and no air come out of the bleed.
   

IMPORTANT!!

MAKE SURE you have enough fluid in your reservoir. If it runs out, you'll suck air into the line you'll have to bleed the whole system.

Also if you haven't opened the nipple in a long time, be very careful. It is real easy to strip or break the nipple while loosening it. If this happens you will need to take out the banjo bolt and replace both the nipple and the banjo. You should be able to get both of these from your local duc shop for $12. One of the cheapest repairs you'll ever have.

Zen and the Art of Ducati Maintenance

"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming." - Robert M. Pirsig: Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

Pirsig pretty much sums up the riding experience. He also goes on to explore how the wonders of a motorcycle don't stop at riding, but continue on in the maintenance of the machine.

I've had a real difficult time searching through forums and websites gathering information on how to perform maintenance, upgrades, service...ect. So I thought I would start a blog explaining what I've learned in hopes that it will benefit whoever ends up here in their search for maintenance instruction.

I myself have no real mechanical ability, so if I am able to pull off any form of work on my Duc, so can you.